+ concept
A shoe as a sculpturally and architecturally constructed form was the guiding idea in creating this graduating project. These shoes were made as a concept; first on a paper and then were developed methodically, studiously, taking into account the proportion and statics, and were finally handmade as little, unique sculptures. I was inspired by works of artist Naum Gabo and architect Santiago Calatrava, by their forms inspired mostly by nature, space, geometric shapes and mathematical principles. My focus was on modeling a shoe as a form with artistic, geometric and mathematical values. A strong stress is on heels, since whole shoe form is based on them; they are like ‘’supporting poles’’, constructive elements which carry the whole creative process.
Bernard Figueroa once said: ‘’There is so much space between a woman’s heel and the floor that one can use’’, and that is exactly what I tried to accomplish using this space as much as possible.
Observing Naum Gabo’s sculpture ’’Torsion-Bronze Variation’’ the idea was born – to create a form which is expressive, complex and in a way unexpected, structural and constructed in detail – a shoe, which will primarily be of artistic significance, while its function will be secondary.
White and decoration/ornament free, these shoes are focused on the very form, which is, so to say, their only decorative element. The form determines ornamentality.
Morphology of these shoes, especially the heels, is unexpected, unique and dynamic, constructed by the principle of rotation and multiplication of basic forms, creating a new design in which forms merge, permeate and interlace with one another, in complex variations. The heel shapes are created by multiplying, intercepting and rotating 2D surfaces in order to achieve a 3D figure.
The entire collection is, in a way, a homage to the sculptor and the architect whose inspiring forms had a strong impact on entire creative result of the shoe collection.
Collection contains ten models, which can be divided into three groups. The first group was inspired by Naum Gabo’s sculptures, second by Calatrava’a architecture, while the third is a fusion of the first two. When it comes to shape, the focus is on sharp geometrical lines, form lightness and soft, organic shapes. The entire work is a combination of Gabo’s structures and Calatrava’s constructions.
The first group – linear constructions – is inspired by Naum Gabo and they represent the idea of levity, transparency and complex structure.
Architectural shoe – the second group refers to the constructions and architecture of Santiago Calatrava with an accent on detail. These high heels are sculptural figures which dominate and determine the form of a shoe.
The final group of the collection – wings/variations – are steered around the tendency for natural, organic shapes, compact forms and distinct sculptural and architectural details. The whole concept is based on monocoque form.
To underline their sculptural form, the shoes are kept white, which on the other hand emphasizes the artistic language, present in the entire collection.
